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Creators/Authors contains: "Kendall Melville, W."

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  1. Geometric, kinematic and dynamic properties of focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets are examined in a simplified model with the intent of deriving a wave breaking threshold parameter. The model is based on the spatial modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation of Dysthe ( Proc. R. Soc. Lond.  A, vol. 369 (1736), 1979, pp. 105–114). The evolution of initially narrow-banded and weakly nonlinear chirped Gaussian wave packets are examined, by means of a trial function and a variational procedure, yielding analytic solutions describing the approximate evolution of the packet width, amplitude, asymmetry and phase during focusing. A model for the maximum free surface gradient, as a function of $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$$ and $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$$ , for $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$$ the linear prediction of the maximum slope at focusing and $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$$ the non-dimensional packet bandwidth, is proposed and numerically examined, indicating a quasi-self-similarity of these focusing events. The equations of motion for the fully nonlinear potential flow equations are then integrated to further investigate these predictions. It is found that a model of this form can characterize the bulk partitioning of $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}-\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$$ phase space, between non-breaking and breaking waves, serving as a breaking criterion. Application of this result to better understanding air–sea interaction processes is discussed. 
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